Uzbekistan’s culturally-rich cottage weaving industry was one of the country’s most-developed art spheres for many centuries until the 1920s. The production of hand-weaved products was in high demand far beyond the borders of modern-day Uzbekistan and even Central Asia. Most of Uzbekistan’s artisans and craftsmen were involved in this industry with more than 20 silk weaving workshops actively in production in the Tashkent region alone.
During this time of peak popularity, two types of weaving products were produced: cotton fabrics and silk fabrics. The cotton versions were more popular for daily, utilitarian use, while the silk fabrics were expensive and luxuriously rich, making them popular among wealthier buyers.
Entire villages and towns often specialized in creating certain types and colors of fabrics; local schools for training young men and women in the art of weaving were created. The production of each fabric type was typically segregated with women mostly involved in the creation of cotton fabrics while men created silk and semi-silk fabrics.
The industrial revolution at the turn of the 20th century ushered in the introduction of weaving factories. Small weaving cottages suffered as a result of this change and production output fell. Artisans responded to the pressure of industrialization by trying to enrich their goods, which increased production costs. Soon these more expensive goods could not compete with those created at the factories and many craftsmen fell into bankruptcy.
Weaving cottages in the Ferghana Valley somehow managed to remain competitive in these conditions and many of these businesses survived. At the time there were around 2,000 weaving workshops in Ferghana. To the west in the Tashkent region, however, things were not as positive. Weaving shops in Tashkent gradually disappeared and were never revived.
A 21st-Century Awakening
Today this historical past is being restored through a project spearheaded by the Human House Gallery in Tashkent. This gallery received its name from the phrase “Human Made,” which literally means “made by humans.” The gallery is located on Shota Rustavelli Street not far from Babur Park.
The initial goal of the project was to create a new weaving workshop and begin production of natural, handmade fabrics in the same tradition used by ancient artisans centuries ago.
After a long search, an historical two-story building conveniently located in the old part of Tashkent was found for this project. This location within the “old city” perfectly suited the idea of creating an old weaving shop and reviving the ancient art of fabric making. Formerly owned by a rich merchant, the building underwent partial interior remodeling and a complete reconstruction of the exterior façade before the project could get underway.
Once the remodeling was completed, large looms were installed on the second floor. Each loom was able to weave fabric with a width of 80 square meters. The looms and all related equipment were handmade by craftsmen from Margilan.
With the new looms successfully in place, three artisans from Margilan began producing national cotton and silk fabric called “ikat.” Production of these fabrics was supported by the Human House Gallery in Tashkent.
In 2005 a dying shop was constructed adjacent to the weaving building with support from a grant provided by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). The new shop was equipped with all necessary machinery needed to dye natural fabrics and threads.
Two years later, a field study school was opened in the workshop building with another UNESCO grant. Within a period of just six months, 12 specialized trainees began receiving lessons from the three Margilan craftsmen already creating fabrics at the shop. Both students and craftsmen received scholarships and salaries during this period.
The school attracted a lot of attention and interest and was given many favorable reports. Representatives from the local mahalla and media visited the school several times during this initial period.
Today several weavers produce cotton and silk fabrics in the weaving shop. The shop itself also functions as a tourist site, attracting local and foreign visitors who want to not only observe the process of handmade fabric production but also feel the authentic atmosphere of ancient Uzbekistan.
If you would like to witness this awakening of Uzbekistan’s colorful past, please visit the Human Made weaving workshop.
For more information, contact the Human House at 255 44 11/humanhuman.net
By Yury Pak , head of the weaving shop Human Made
